I was in the supermarket this afternoon buying salad makings and one of the things I picked up was a head of radicchio. The very nice young woman at the checkout didn’t recognize it.
“When I first started buying it,” I admitted, “I thought it was a small head of read cabbage.”
It all started one summer when Anne (not her real name), my boyfriend Ed (not his real name either) and I were sharing a house. Anne was an excellent cook and I’d learned a lot about vegetables from her. Anne and I had developed a sudden urge for cole slaw, which we spent over an hour chopping by hand until it was fine enough to suit Anne, who claimed that the French recipe she had in mind called for extra fine cabbage.
“I don’t like vegetables,” Ed claimed.
Anne didn’t agree, “You eat mine. You probably just don’t like mushy vegetables.”
Ed admitted this was true. “But I don’t know how to cook any other vegetables.”
“Either do I,” I piped up.
That’s when Anne started talking about her favorite vegetable recipes and some of her favorite cook books.
I went out that week and bought two of her recommendations, Irene Kuo’s The Key to Chinese Cooking, and Marcella Hazan’s Classic Italian Cooking.
I looked through both cookbooks and picked out the red cabbage recipe from the Chinese cookbook.. I was only cooking for me and Ed, so I didn’t want to buy the large heads of red cabbage on sale at the supermarket. I found a small head of what looked to me like red cabbage and off I went. The “cabbage” didn’t quite turn the color the book claimed it would, but I figured it was just me.
It was a hit with both me and Ed, and I was quite happily stir frying the radicchio using the sweet and sour red cabbage recipe (which I highly recommend) when Anne came over one night for dinner.
“That’s radicchio, not red cabbage,” she informed me.
“That’s Italian, right?”
“Yes.”
Right away I hauled out Marcella Hazan’s Classic Italian Cooking to look for a recipe. There was none. The book basically said to pretend it was endive.
“If she can pretend it’s endive, I can pretend it’s red cabbage,” I told Anne, and went back to stir frying it.
The cookbooks I’ve consulted since all say to use radicchio in salad but so far none have had a cooked radicchio recipe.
If you have one, please write and tell us about it. Meanwhile, I’m going back to making my salad.